Friday, October 31, 2008

[story 02] Female Product and Origin of Design Identity

Pants are an integral part of my life and millions of women as well. When I have to dress up in a special day, I chose to go for a dress. However, when I attend class, work in a studio, or simply lounge at home, I prefer jeans, soft pants or occasionally woman business suit, which offer more freedom to my activity. It is hard to believe that a century ago women wearing pants were a wrong doing thing. California did not make it legal for women to wear pants to the work place until 1995. Until 1800, when women started to work in industrialized place, pants were prohibited by social norm, and religion was one of the most common reason for a woman never to wear a pair of pants.

Through the history of women pants, we can see the evolution of twentieth century gender roles. Women pants appeared at early nineteenth century when feminist movement, which required the changed from Victorian dresses to a more practical costume, began. However, women pants did not distributed widely to many people until the fashion industry convinced people they are a necessary one.

The next attempt at bringing pants into women fashion world was with 1880’s and 1890’s bicycle outfit. Knee length knickerbockers were worn with a split wide skirt and stockings. However, the world of fashion tagged this outfit as un-ladylike and it did not become popular.

Then, World War 1 came, which demand women to work in factories instead of men. Loose pants and pants similar to riding pants became part of the work attire. When World War II began, overalls were so popular that they were worn by many actresses and printed on posters all over the country.
Today, pants are worn far more often than skirts by women.

A model wearing Capri pants, 1950s.


Women pant was a symbol of women liberation from traditional roles and symbol of working modern woman as well. It gave freedom to women in work place and changed the people’s thought based on gender role.

However, looking through the history of pants, we realize the idea of product comes from the structures of belief embedded in the society first, then from the user’s need. If WW1 never happened, or if the fashion industry never approved pants as a women item, probably we were not able to wear pants today, even we know they are so much comfortable.

Now, we can ask a question considering the realm of design. Does the product identity first comes from the belief fixed in the structure of social view, not from the need of user such as product like women pants? I will say NO. Today, people are more likely to express their individual preference, rather than just following the social trend. So, we see many products came from ideas based on the user research first, and furthermore benefit people behavior, and social view.

So, what is the designer’s role? I believe it is designer’s role to design object based on the understanding of user need first, and incorporate things that can change our society to a better state.

Here is another example of female product.

Most of us know someone who has suffered from breast cancer, and may have unfortunately had to have a mastectomy because of that. When women lose a part of their body that has always made them feel beautiful, they tend to lose a certain sense of confidence and femininity.

Lumitact, the product name, is an adhesive, tactile breast prosthesis that integrates Phillips’ Lumalive material into its design. Instead of feeling embarrassed by the un-natural feel of a breast prosthesis, Lumitact can make a woman feel self-confident, sexy and feminine once again.

Like this example, designer can find their identity by offering better experience and life to people. And through this process, product can get its meaning as well.

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